上海人過年一定要吃這個(gè)，比八寶飯、湯圓還搶手，不僅僅因?yàn)槲兜篮?/title>  <meta itemprop="name" content="上海人過年一定要吃這個(gè)，比八寶飯、湯圓還搶手，不僅僅因?yàn)槲兜篮? />  <meta itemprop="image" content="http://www.people.com.cn/img/2016wb/images/logo_share.jpg" /> <meta name="keywords" content="" /> <meta name="description" content="迎新吃糕是上海的傳統(tǒng)習(xí)俗之一，因?yàn)椤案狻迸c“高”同音，有“節(jié)節(jié)高”“步步高”的好口彩。好吃的糕往往比八寶飯、湯圓更搶手，屬于“限量秒殺級(jí)”。在市區(qū)喬家柵、沈大成、王家沙等老字號(hào)里，最應(yīng)景的節(jié)日糕點(diǎn)是松" /> <meta name="copyright" content="人民網(wǎng)版權(quán)所有" /> <meta name="filetype" content="0"> <meta name="publishedtype" content="1"> <meta name="pagetype" content="1"> <meta name="catalogs" content="L_134768"> <meta name="contentid" content="L_34577506"> <meta name="publishdate" content="2021-02-13"> <meta name="author" content="L_103771"> <meta name="editor" content=""> <meta name="source" content="來源：上觀新聞"> <meta name="sourcetype" content=""> <meta name="renderer" content="webkit" /> <meta http-equiv="X-UA-Compatible" content="IE=Edge" /> <meta 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class="pppp1n5n" id="ops_share"></div> <script src="http://www.people.com.cn/img/2016wb/share_qr2019dwb.min.js" charset="utf-8"></script> </div> <div id="pppp1n5n" class="message"><a target="_blank"><img src="http://www.people.com.cn/img/2016wb/images/icon04.jpg" width="29" height="23"></a> </div> </div> </div> </div>   <div id="pppp1n5n" class="clearfix w1000_320 text_con">  <div id="pppp1n5n" class="fl text_con_left"> <div id="pppp1n5n" class="box_pic"></div> <div id="pppp1n5n" class="box_con"> <p style="text-indent: 2em;"> 迎新吃糕是上海的傳統(tǒng)習(xí)俗之一，因?yàn)椤案狻迸c“高”同音，有“節(jié)節(jié)高”“步步高”的好口彩。好吃的糕往往比八寶飯、湯圓更搶手，屬于“限量秒殺級(jí)”。</p> <p style="text-indent: 2em;"> 在市區(qū)喬家柵、沈大成、王家沙等老字號(hào)里，最應(yīng)景的節(jié)日糕點(diǎn)是松糕。圓圓的松糕上點(diǎn)綴著各色果料，看上去就十分喜氣，但日銷量達(dá)到數(shù)千只就遭遇產(chǎn)量“天花板”。老字號(hào)的老師傅們說，松糕對(duì)生產(chǎn)技藝要求很高，純手工制作，所以產(chǎn)量有限，但口味有保障。</p> <p style="text-indent: 2em;"> 喬家柵的資深技師趙金美告訴解放日?qǐng)?bào)·上觀新聞?dòng)浾�，松糕口感蓬松，但生產(chǎn)過程無需添加酵母、泡打粉等任何膨松劑，這是因?yàn)槊追凼撬筛獾摹办`魂”：將粳米、糯米配比淘洗浸泡后磨粉，需要“醒”一段時(shí)間，才能做糕。至于浸泡和“醒”的時(shí)間長(zhǎng)短，與不同產(chǎn)地的粳米、糯米特點(diǎn)有關(guān)。最終目標(biāo)是蒸出來的松糕既要能看見粒粒分明的米粉，又要松軟可口。而在喬家柵，同一塊糕，表面和內(nèi)里使用的米粉也不相同：表面的粉會(huì)磨得細(xì)些，口感比較細(xì)膩；里面的粉則粗一些，豐富層次。</p> <p style="text-indent: 2em;"> 節(jié)日里，喬家柵的師傅們忙著做松糕</p> <p style="text-indent: 2em;"> 做糕的時(shí)候，先撒一層米粉，然后放餡料。喬家柵的松糕以手工炒制的純豆沙為餡，擺放的時(shí)候要把豆沙掰成一小塊一小塊，均勻鋪在米粉上，中間留出空隙。接著撒上另一層米粉，點(diǎn)綴果料，上籠蒸透�！叭绻股充伒貌痪鶆�，蒸糕的時(shí)候蒸汽會(huì)被豆沙阻隔，容易導(dǎo)致部分米粉沒有蒸透，影響‘賣相’也影響口感�！壁w金美說，評(píng)判松糕質(zhì)量的標(biāo)準(zhǔn)之一，是蒸好后每一粒米粉都不能出現(xiàn)生的或夾生的白色。</p> <p style="text-indent: 2em;"> 喬家柵的松糕豆沙均勻，果料豐富</p> <p style="text-indent: 2em;"> 沈大成糕點(diǎn)部第三代傳人沈國(guó)興也說，松糕的名字里有個(gè)“松”字，很考驗(yàn)制作米粉的水平。沈大成用粳米搭配糯米制作松糕，其中粳米的比例大些。淘洗浸泡時(shí)，松糕用的水要少于條頭糕、雙釀團(tuán)等糕點(diǎn)，為的是最后磨粉時(shí)，米粉的顆粒粗一些，實(shí)現(xiàn)蓬松的口感。待松糕蒸透后，有嚼勁的米粉能中和甜膩的豆沙，“所以很多消費(fèi)者覺得，一樣是春節(jié)的甜食，松糕的口感要比八寶飯和湯圓清爽很多�！�</p> <p style="text-indent: 2em;"> 沈大成南京東路店的松糕前店后工廠制作，消費(fèi)者拿到手里還是熱騰騰的</p> <p style="text-indent: 2em;"> 上海市郊的吃糕傳統(tǒng)同樣源遠(yuǎn)流長(zhǎng)，不同區(qū)域的糕也略有差別。</p> <p style="text-indent: 2em;"> 崇明糕</p> <p style="text-indent: 2em;"> 崇明糕赫赫有名。它原先是島上農(nóng)民獻(xiàn)給灶神的祈福食品，因選料講究、甜度適中、清香松口、糯而不粘，逐漸成為島上特色美食，在長(zhǎng)三角聲名遠(yuǎn)揚(yáng)。</p> <p style="text-indent: 2em;"> 做崇明糕的第一步是選米。最地道的是用當(dāng)?shù)禺a(chǎn)的上好糯米和剛豐收的新米。糯米和新米按照7:3的比例，用水泡上兩小時(shí)，待米粒充分浸透后，開始打粉。粉要磨得細(xì)，糕才軟糯好吃，但越細(xì)越考驗(yàn)火候，因?yàn)榧?xì)分不容易蒸透。所以，只要一看崇明糕的米粉細(xì)膩程度，就知道做糕的是有經(jīng)驗(yàn)的老師傅還是剛剛?cè)胄械男率�。粉磨好后，添加白糖、紅糖，再加上剁碎的赤豆、紅棗、蜜餞、瓜子等，加水?dāng)嚢杈鶆�，適當(dāng)揉煉后，就進(jìn)入最關(guān)鍵的蒸制過程。</p> <p style="text-indent: 2em;"> 正宗的崇明糕在蒸制時(shí)以曬干的豆箕作為燃料，因?yàn)檫@種燃料的火力容易把握，還能有一種特別的植物芳香。灶頭上的大鐵鍋里加上適量水，放置蒸籠后，在蒸籠里鋪上潔凈的濕布，放入糕粉刮平作粉胚。然后，鋪上一層粉料，待熟了之后鋪第二層……直到完成整只糕。如果一股腦兒把粉堆成糕，會(huì)蒸不透。在蒸糕時(shí)，還要用毛巾圍住蒸籠周圍，防止蒸汽泄漏。為的也是把糕蒸熟蒸透。</p> <p style="text-indent: 2em;"> 與別處的糕相比，崇明糕可以更高、更圓、更厚、更重。崇明糕的單位是“籠”，傳統(tǒng)的一籠崇明糕僅主料就要用20斤左右的米粉，加上水、糖、配料后蒸熟，大約有30斤重，高20厘米以上，足夠一家人從歲末吃到正月十五。不過這些年，當(dāng)?shù)匾策M(jìn)行了改良，五六斤一籠的崇明糕也多了，方便愛嘗鮮的消費(fèi)者。</p> <p style="text-indent: 2em;"> 葉榭軟糕</p> <p style="text-indent: 2em;"> 松江的葉榭軟糕也頗有名氣，名列上海市非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)。葉榭軟糕有方糕、素糕、桂花白糖糕等三個(gè)主要品種。方糕以豬油、豆沙、棗仁、紅綠瓜絲、綿白糖為餡心，外現(xiàn)呈正方形，色澤鮮艷，特點(diǎn)為肥、香、甜。素糕系加入上等綿白糖，外現(xiàn)呈大塊長(zhǎng)方型，雪白細(xì)膩，松、軟、甜、涼，即使在盛夏季節(jié)，也能一周內(nèi)不餿變。桂花白糖糕以全糯米加桂花、白糖、豬油、豆沙制成，外觀呈圓盤形，松、軟、甜、香、肥，吃起來松軟香甜而不膩。</p> <p style="text-indent: 2em;"> 近年來，葉榭軟糕新一代傳承人朱燕根據(jù)新的消費(fèi)習(xí)慣，對(duì)葉榭軟糕進(jìn)行了年輕化、品牌化、市場(chǎng)化開發(fā)。例如，將活字印刷與葉榭軟糕結(jié)合，賦予葉榭軟糕更多的寓意和樂趣。在這些天熱銷的新春款軟糕上，大多印著“牛年大吉”“新年快樂”“平安喜樂”等字樣。</p> <p style="text-indent: 2em;"> 閔行同樣有兩大特色糕點(diǎn)：七寶方糕和桶蒸糕。</p> <p style="text-indent: 2em;"> 七寶方糕</p> <p style="text-indent: 2em;"> 正宗的七寶方糕產(chǎn)于七寶寺，外皮用糯米，內(nèi)餡則五花八門：芝麻、豆沙、棗泥、赤豆、桂花……它最大的特色是外皮甜糯不粘牙，餡料甜得恰到好處。</p> <p style="text-indent: 2em;"> 桶蒸糕</p> <p style="text-indent: 2em;"> 桶蒸糕是顓橋地區(qū)的傳統(tǒng)年俗小吃，名列上海市非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)。桶蒸糕由大米和糯米混合磨粉制成，用專門的杉木桶作為蒸具，蒸好后呈直徑30厘米、厚10多厘米的圓筒形，很契合“新年節(jié)節(jié)高”的寓意。</p> <p style="text-indent: 2em;"> 四喜風(fēng)糕</p> <p style="text-indent: 2em;"> 四喜風(fēng)糕是寶山羅涇地區(qū)的特色糕點(diǎn)。四喜風(fēng)糕以當(dāng)?shù)貎?yōu)質(zhì)稻米為原材料，粳糯搭配，在浸泡后瀝干磨細(xì)成粉，加糖水拌和后，篩濾成料，裝入模具，于籠屜內(nèi)蒸成。雖然工序并不復(fù)雜，但粉之粗細(xì)、料之干濕、輔料添加、火候把握等均需拿捏有度。羅涇的四喜風(fēng)糕形狀不一、大小不同、口味多樣，但均有糯而不粘、味美爽口的特色。</p> <p style="text-indent: 2em;"> 在上海市郊，還有一種“焋糕”流傳甚廣。上海市非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)、金山呂巷的白龍糕是焋糕的典型代表。</p> <p style="text-indent: 2em;"> 白龍糕</p> <p style="text-indent: 2em;"> 焋，意為裝米入甑熏蒸，所以焋糕也稱蒸糕。焋糕的主要原料也是糯米和粳米，二者混合比例因地而異。蒸前在糕粉里加入糖水不停揉搓，叫做“溲糕粉”，糕粉溲得好不好直接影響焋糕的質(zhì)量。將溲過的糕粉用篩子過濾一遍，使口感更加綿密，叫做“插糕粉”。接著，將篩好的糕粉灑入模具中。金山、松江等地的焋糕多用三乘三、四乘四、五乘五等方方正正的竹制模具，方言稱之為“糕正”。在米粉中放入豆沙或棗泥等甜餡料，再用糕粉填平模具。翻面后，揭開上面蓋著的模板，糕點(diǎn)就有了精致的外形。最后將焋糕送上灶頭，蒸熟后的糕點(diǎn)可以在寒冬臘月放上個(gè)把禮拜不會(huì)變質(zhì)，由此成為流行的年俗小吃。</p> <div id="pppp1n5n" class="zdfy clearfix"></div><center><table border="0" align="center" 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